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04.05.02
Ziegenstall (climbing garden)
The Climber's Restaurant (climbing garden)
Bernd Arnold, Nov. 2000 and March 2002
Location:
South face of Abu Maileh Tower, in front of the East Face of Jebel Rum. 15 minutes from the resthouse. The little tower, the "Camel's Head" (30 meter), can be clearly distinguished when looking from the campground of the resthouse.
Character of the routes:
English: goats' cote or stables. Brilliant and hard short toprope routes on perfect rock. The belays (bolt) of the routes can be easily reached by scrambling up the right corner to gain the ledge 15 m above.
1 Rammler,7b
2 Pfefferminztraum, 6c/7a, depending on your body length
3 Meck Meck, 6b, wall and corner
4 Ziegenstall, 6b+, crack and wall
4a Ziegenstall direct, 6c
4b Ziegenstall easy go, 6a+ (right hand variation)
5 Kamelkopf (Camel's Head), West face of the little tower, 5
Bernd Arnold, Kurt Albert, Egbert Dozekal
1st ascent: 1/3/5 March 2002
Location:
Wadi Es Sid right hand side, huge face of a tower at the right side at the end of the canyon, about 1 hours walk from the Resthouse (20 min North along the road, 40 min West up the canyon)
300 m, 9 pitches, 7b; the route is well protected with bolts and slings, including belay/abseil bolts. In addition, a full rack of friends and rocks is needed.
40 m, 6c; corner
20 m, 6a; face
20 m, 6a; face
45 m, 6a+; face
30 m, 7a+; corner
45 m, 6c; corner
35 m, 7a; face
30 m, 7b; corner
25 m, 6a
Egbert Dozekal, Christophe Bignon, Christine Preis, Anne Vandercam
Date of 1st ascent: 31.01.2000
Location:
south-west facing side of Um Hashad Canyon, which lies exactly 1.5 km north of South Barrah Canyon, also running from south-east to north-west direction;
Camel Race” is on the south-west facing blank wall (about 80 m high) with a left facing diedre with an obvious finger-crack;
the route takes the slabs and cracks to the start of the finger-crack, which is followed to its end to reach a sort of platform
beautiful crack-climbing on excellent rock with good protection
Pitch 1, 25 m, 6a, slabs/cracks to start of the finger-crack, belay on 2 bolts
Pitch 2, 25 m, 6b, finger-crack, small rocks and friends (+ friend 3 ½ ), belay/abseil point on 2 bolts
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Bernd Arnold, Egbert Dozekal
1st ascent: 19 Feb. 2002
Location:
south-west facing side of Um Hashad Canyon, which lies exactly 1.5 km north of South Barrah Canyon, also running from south-east to north-west direction (like "Camel Race")
Mafish Mushkila is on the south-west facing blank wall, on the right hand side of "Camel Race".
a perfect "sports climb", 40 m, 6c, 8 bolts; belay/abseil point on 2 bolts
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Egbert Dozekal, Christophe Bignon, Christine Preis, Anne Vandercam
Date of 1st ascent: 01.02.2000
Location:
huge pocketed wall on the right side of the south-west facing side of South Barrah Canyon;
to the left of the wall is a huge diedre with the route R 218 A “Schoarf Unterwegs”, on the very left side of the wall is a bolt with a sling, 2 m above the terrace, belonging to R 218 B “Hala Hala”
“Dance on Slings” takes the start of “Hala Hala”, but then heads to the centre of the wall climbing this up to the big break 80 m above, following the good dark rock and avoiding the fragile yellow one
exposed and steep wall-climbing on generally good rock with the occasional fragile yellow parts; belays and abseil point are in place and bomb-proof; for protection only slings and one friend necessary
Pitch 1, 25 m, 6a,
protect belayer with two friends 3 in
horizontal crack below roof; start
below bolt, overhang 6a (AO),free 6c; 3
slings in place
Pitch 2, 15 m, 6a+, 4 slings in place (plus one friend 2 ½ possible)
Pitch 3, 25 m, 6a, 5 slings in place (plus 4 additional slings possible)
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Caught in the Desert or The Flat Tyre
Egbert Dozekal, Christine Preis
Date of 1st ascent:
08.02.2000 (1st pitch) and
02.02.2201 (to top, possibly 1st ascent of the dome)
Location:
east-facing side of the mountain, which lies eastwards, next and parallel to Al Maghrar 1232 Dome and immediately north of Al Maghrar 1260 Dome; the east side of this mountain displays in the centre a huge smooth black wall, which has a big diedre on the left (south) end with a crack-line running to the top, and further left to this a wide chimney also running to the top
“Caught in the Desert” or “The Flat Tyre” follows the finger-crack in the obvious north-facing diedre.
steep crack-climbing on good rock (except for the 2nd pitch) with solid protection in an extremely beautiful part of the desert.
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Bernd Arnold, Atieq Auda, Martina Beitz, Tanjeff Bourget, Egbert Dozekal, Oliver Graf, Farid Islami, Christine Preis
Date of 1st ascent: 22.01.2002
Location:
Wadi Al Maghrar area; the local climbing guide Atieq Auda knows the exact location. Broad wall (100 m wide, 100 m high, with about 50 m high black pocketed rock), east facing, in a canyon
Character of the routes:
7 different one pitch routes, well protected by bolts and slings. Each route has an abseil anchor.
The routes from left to right:
Happy Birthday, 15 m, 6c/7a, 4 bolts, 1 sling; face and edge
Für Geniesser, 25 m, 5, 1 sling; corner or wall and crack
Fliegender Perser, 25 m, 6a, 9 bolts, 2 belay bolts; face
Atieq's Route, 20 m, 5-, 5 slings, 1 belay sling; wall of the tower
Reflektion, 25 m, 4+, 7 slings, 1 belay sling; pocketed wall
Profitratte, 20 m, 5, 5 slings, 1 belay sling; pocketed wall
Abseiluebung, 25 m, 4, 1 belay sling; wall and slab
